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9" Stainless Steel Domed False Bottom

9" Stainless Steel Domed False Bottom

Item Number 99-2649
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5
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Our 9 " Stainless Steel domed False Bottom is commonly used in 5 Gallon Igloo Coolers.

The 16% open design contributes to better efficiency and a clearer sparge.

Add-on our false bottom assembly which includes all fittings from the false bottom through to the stainless steel one piece ball valve.

Our compression fitting design incorporate a stainless steel tube which essentially "Hard Plumbs" the false bottom into place. The false bottom will NOT float.

The fittings are a mixture of brass and stainless steel.  Currently (June 2013), the tube, nut and ball valve are stainless steel and the elbow, hose barb, bulkhead and compression fittings are brass.  We've looked at the possibility of making everything stainless steel on this and determined it is simply not cost efficient.  HOWEVER, if you are interested in all stainless steel, we recommend going with a pot over the cooler as a mash tun.  Here is one example.

If you are mashing in a cooler, this is the premier false bottom for you.

Add-on the cooler & False Bottom assembly and we will assemble your cooler for free!

5/5
Rating Works great, only 8 ounces of deadspace on my system
 
I used this with a 5 gallon Igloo cooler last weekend and it worked great. I did some testing beforehand and found that I now have about 8 ounces of fluid left in the deadspace on my system. I used 4 or 5 inches of 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Thickwall PVC Line between a stainless valve and a 3/8" stainless elbow hose barb in the false bottom, with 1/2" NPT stainless lock nuts above and below the false bottom keeping the barb in place. It didn't float and with practically no deadspace I'm very happy for now. - Reviewed by on 3/15/2014
5/5
Rating Nicest I Have Ever Seen
 
I just wanted to let you know that your false bottom is the nicest false bottom that I have ever seen in the homebrew trade. You should be proud of this product. - Reviewed by on 8/29/2013
5/5
Rating What a Difference
 
I''ve gone through a couple brew days now with the new false bottom, and what a difference. I previously had a cooler mash tun with all home depot parts with just a stainless mesh screen. There was too much movement with it, I smashed it with my spoon a couple times and had a couple stuck mashes. Both of my brews with the new false bottom have gone through without any problem and hit the targets perfectly. The equipment is nice and solid and just has a great professional look and feel. Great work, I''ll be checking you out for all my future needs! - Reviewed by on 2/1/2012
5/5
Rating Looks Great
 
The false bottom looks great, so I can''t wait to put it to use. I really like the idea of slots rather than holes. You have definitely earned my repeat business. Keep it up! - Reviewed by on 7/28/2008

Q: What size should the grain be milled at so they don't go through the holes?
Asked by: - 3/13/2014
A: We mill our grains at 0.035" and find that crush works well with this bottom.
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Q: Will a standard barbed false bottom elbow fit in the hole in this one?
Asked by: - 3/3/2014
A: A 1/2" MPT will fit in the hole of the false bottom.
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Q: Can you use this in a 10 gal cooler? I ask because I already have this one and would like to have a bigger mash tun. I know it would "work" but are there any big drawbacks?
Asked by: - 2/24/2014
A: We do not recommend using the 9" false bottom in a 10 gallon cooler. We make a 12" domed false bottom that works perfectly for a 10 gallon Igloo or Rubbermaid cooler.
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Q: Do you have any numbers as far as dead-space below the 9" false bottom in an Igloo cooler?
Asked by: - 1/29/2014
A: Nothing in writing, but there isn't much dead-space whatsoever. I would guess maybe 16 oz's tops.
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Q: What is involved in cleaning beneath the false bottom when "hard plumbed" in the cooler. Is it a matter of loosening a nut within the cooler to remove the false bottom? Or does the entire assembly including valve need to be removed. Need to get a feel for how arduous it'll be clean..
Asked by: - 12/19/2013
A: It's pretty easy. You can loosen one compression fitting and take the whole assembly out, up to the ball valve. If you would like to take the ball valve, cooler fitting, etc...apart as well, that is just one more lock nut. All in all pretty simple.
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